恐山 - Osorezan - 10/16-17/2023

About: Mount Osore (恐山, Osore-zan) is the name of a Buddhist temple and folk religion pilgrimage destination in the center of remote Shimokita Peninsula of Aomori Prefecture, in the northern Tōhoku region of northern Japan. The temple is located in the caldera of an active volcano and is believed in Japanese mythology to be one of the gates to the underworld.

The mountain was once called Usoriyama by the Ainu people, but was gradually changed by the Japanese to Osore, meaning "dread", which may be a statement to the sites of enshrined dead in the area.

The mountain is one peak of the Osore-zan Mountain Range (恐山山地, Osore-zan Sanchi), a series of eight somma volcanos ranging from east to west in the centre of Shimokita Peninsula. Mount Osore has a height of 879 metres (2,884 ft). Although Mount Osore last erupted over 10,000 years ago, the area has many fumaroles emitting steam and volcanic gases (especially sulfur dioxide), indicating that it is still an active volcano. Lake Usori is a caldera lake at the center of Mount Osore, with highly acidic waters.

During the Meiji period, sulphur deposits in the area were exploited, partly to meet the demand for gunpowder production by the growing Japanese military; however the deposits were not economical to mine due to the remoteness of the site and the increasing availability of sulphur as a byproduct of petroleum refining.

Geological Summary: Osorezan, on the Shimokita Peninsula in northernmost Honshu, contains a 5-km-wide caldera partly occupied by a shallow lake that drains through the N caldera wall. Dissected lava domes ring the caldera floor. The andesitic-to-dacitic volcano is largely Pleistocene in age, with activity dating back about 800,000 years. The last identified distal tephra deposit was erupted during the late Pleistocene. The only report of historical activity was in a Tohoku district travel document published in 1787, which stated that Yakeyama in Mutsu country (Osoreyama) had erupted. Older residents reported that large fires and clouds were sometimes seen from the summit, accounting for the volcano's local name, Yakeyama, or "Burning Mountain" (Murayama, 1987). Earthquake swarms have been documented during the second half of the 20th century, and magma bodies have been detected beneath the volcano.

My experience: After deciding to scrap my plans to Hokkaido and a short stay in one of my favorite city's Sendai, I headed north via Shinkansen. My original reservations had me picking up rental car in the town of Mutsu which would have meant switching to local train in Hachinohe however I was able to visit the local Toyota office and found they had a rental car available AND that would allow me to return to different location. After renting the car (an upgraded one), I drove from Hachinohe station to Mutsu but given I had a couple hours of daylight remaining, I took quick trip to Osorezan that evening. It was windy, a bit cold and cloudy, however the suns rays came through just enough to emit a feeling of magic and other worldliness, which the area is known for. 

I stayed that evening in Mutsu at Hotel Unisite Mutsu ホテルユニサイト むつ (Booking.com Link & Google Maps Link) which is a business hotel but offered a pleasant, clean, efficient stay.

The next morning I checked out early and drove back to Osorezan walking the entire grounds again this time using the local onsen as well. There are 2 onsen (bathing buildings) for women and one for men location immediately on the property. If you need a towel you can exit the gate and purchase one in the gift shop to the left of the gate as you exit. 

This is a location that requires no preparation if you want to purely visit the temple, onsen, and walk the grounds. There are several volcanic fumeroles in the area with the aroma of sulfer in the air. I say aroma because for me offers fond memories of onsen in the peaceful nature setting of Japan.

After walking the property for a while, I explored the Shozu River which runs directly adjacent to the temple area and also has a few wild hot springs there. I flew the drone a few times then packed up to depart. 

Hiking? I had originally planned to do (and find) some kind of hiking trail however after reading many articles I had reserved myself to believe there was not a trail...but that actually not true...upon leaving and glancing over to the right while looking at the lake there is a gravel parking lot. After parking there and reviewing a wooden sign, there is clearly a hiking trail but rather short (I will post images to those shortly in this same article)

AllTrails on their topo map shows the below dotted line with length of trails which in some cases might have been historical trails. Word of caution is to not trust these as I ave ventured down areas overgrown, unmarked, and misleading before where noone (from AllTrails app) had hiked. That said, these trails appear to not be well trodden AND you are in a heavy forested and bear area so would recommend caution and awareness on these less-traveled (less visited) trails.

Below, the red box notates the parking area where the wooden trails signs are posted also in the images below.

The wooden trail sign above and below, does not show the trails as outlined in the AllTrails historical top map which "could be" because the dotted line trail below is the only one monitored and "maintained". This sign other than the map mainly discusses this area being a forest ecosystem conservation area.

Additional, signage below that basically says "respect the forest", take trash home with you, Don't remove forest products like wood, etc, Don't enter the forest in bad weather, Please refrain from smoking, Climb at your own risk, etc...

Again, I did not have the opportunity to hike this short route as I had located it in last minute exploration of this parking area which is where I saw the signs. While I will be posting video directly from the Osorezan temple and volcanic fumeroles, I will not have hike video of this area.